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Post by axle on Mar 16, 2006 22:12:27 GMT -3
I thought i would get more than a month out of my new u-joints on stock shafts, but...i was doing some local wheelin' ,on a rock pile, when...POP! It seems like it didn't take much to break it. Guess its time for an upgrade. Also, i ran over my jack and bent it good. Jeeping is definetly a strange hobby. Bob
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xjma
New Member
Got Rocks?
Posts: 28
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Post by xjma on Mar 16, 2006 23:04:59 GMT -3
What condition was the old shaft in?? Was it all scarred up and rounded out? That would make the joint not last too long.
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Post by axle on Mar 17, 2006 8:43:56 GMT -3
Not at all, and the old joints weren't bad. i only replaced them because i was doing a locker. Bob
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Post by jeepininmaine on Mar 17, 2006 9:56:12 GMT -3
time for superior shafts and some ctms?
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Post by rich on Mar 17, 2006 10:11:02 GMT -3
i have a dana 30 WT that is seriously built (kinda like jumbo shrimp) that i am either going to put on e-bay or part it out. warn shafts ctm joints 4:56 gears warn 6 bolt hubs make me an offer ;D
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Post by axle on Mar 17, 2006 12:48:46 GMT -3
I am on a budget. Pm me a price for the axles and joints. and one for the whole thing. does it have a locker? Thanks. Bob
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Post by cj7fan on Mar 17, 2006 14:19:32 GMT -3
Bob.... if you step up to a built Dana 30 for the front... I wonder what you would do with your old locker?? ;D
Did you install the new U joint that we got on Saturday?
Kent
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Post by axle on Mar 17, 2006 14:28:08 GMT -3
I can't afford to do anything but the axle shafts. And yes the driveshaft joint is done. Bob
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Post by cj7fan on Mar 17, 2006 15:38:24 GMT -3
ouch...that hurts but I am sure that it will be pretty easy to fix. I am going to wheel the jeep as is for a bit and then decide where I should do a locker (front or rear). I think I will notice a difference going to an open rear.
Maybe we can do some local wheelin' next weekend.
Kent
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Post by axle on Mar 17, 2006 15:50:07 GMT -3
I'll try!
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Post by jps4jeep on Mar 17, 2006 16:50:17 GMT -3
Kent, Lock the front before you do the rear, especially if you do a lot of steet driving with it. You could put a lock-rite/lunch box type locker in the rear for a cheap price, but that would honestly be a retarded thing to do, it will chirp the tires all the time, prematurely wear them out, as well as your axle bearings in the rear from the lock/unlock shutter and the locker itself won't last that long. Those type of lockers (though made for rear axles) are designed for front axle applications. One benefit of CJ's over YJ/TJ/etc.. you have a full floating front axle that you can disconnect the axle from the hub (hence the manual hub locks) so you could weld the front diff up, and have awesome off road traction, unlock your hubs and never notice the difference.
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Post by cj7fan on Mar 17, 2006 17:37:11 GMT -3
John, Thanks for the info. I am really excited just to go back on the trail with matching front and rear gears. Imagine how hard it was to get the jeep moving with a 3.31 in the front and 2.73 in the rear. Being now to jeep I just figured this thing had a TON of drivetrain resistance when in 4Lo and 4WD.... duh! As for the locker, I will definitly have to do my homework and check others who have gone down that path before me. My CJ will see a lot of street driving.... me weekend ride ;D so that is definitly something to consider. Thanks again and when are you going to post some pictures of the 360..... Kent
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Post by bluerocket on Mar 17, 2006 17:37:44 GMT -3
Kent, Lock the front before you do the rear, especially if you do a lot of steet driving with it. You could put a lock-rite/lunch box type locker in the rear for a cheap price, but that would honestly be a retarded thing to do, it will chirp the tires all the time, prematurely wear them out, as well as your axle bearings in the rear from the lock/unlock shutter and the locker itself won't last that long. Those type of lockers (though made for rear axles) are designed for front axle applications. One benefit of CJ's over YJ/TJ/etc.. you have a full floating front axle that you can disconnect the axle from the hub (hence the manual hub locks) so you could weld the front diff up, and have awesome off road traction, unlock your hubs and never notice the difference. I've gotta say that I fully disagree with you on this point johnny. I've had a lunchboxed rear for over a year, bearings are fine, never ever chirped the tires. Premature tire wear Is true, but it is no worse than running a detroit. What made my decision to lock front first, and probably should atleast be a thought is the strength of your axles. I'm not really famailiar with the CJ axles but if they are anything like yj/tj/xj axles and mostly have a weak rearend then I would lock the front end first. However if you have a 44 rear i'd lock that first.
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Post by jps4jeep on Mar 17, 2006 18:05:11 GMT -3
Bobby, you have a automatic.
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Post by axle on Mar 17, 2006 18:23:05 GMT -3
I don't consider the amc 20 weak, of course the two piece axles gotta go! As for the rear lock-rite, its not bad on the street. The front hubs do make it nice for a locker. Bob
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