Body Lift questions

[rockdaleTJ]

I think im going to do a 1 inch body lift to give a little more room to flex in the fron when i get the disconects.
WIll there be any other mods I have to do to avoid problems with this?
My A to Z rockers will not be in the way of the frame when getting the body up another inch??
Any thoughts would be great!

[J.T.Woody]

I believe that you either have to relocate the fan shroud or the radiator (easy), or you can get a 1" Motor mount lift (which also helps out with driveline vibes). Most kits come with any and all extra bracketry needed.

Your A-to-Z rockers bolt on through the body mounts as well as the body itself, right? Maybe you should send the guy an email asking if the lift would work? I don't see why it wouldn't.

What kit are you thinking of? My Daystar 1" was great as it replaced all of the original rubber mounts too (not just a 1" riser puck).

[1BadTJ]

def. spend the xtra bucks for the motormount lift. it will save you a step in the body lift. plus will help raise your oil pan up an inch, and you help w/ any driveline vibes.

raising the linkage for the TC case is a PITA. and you may have a problem w/ the shifter hitting the center console in 2nd gear. recommended to bend the shifter, i just moved the center console back 1/2 an inch.

Peace!

[rockdaleTJ]

so, i would have to raise transfer case linkage for sure to avoid binding right??

does anyone have any recommendations as far as mfgrs. who have a good complete kit for TJ's?

[creeperjeep]

whatever you do, DONT get that billet body lift kit by tntcustoms on Ebay.
the guy is a fukc and can make stuff right, plus he cant measure to give you the right grade 2 bolts,or drill the right sized hole for that matter

[makizoo]

Adding a motor mount lift is an extra ~$60 to $120. A MML is also a PITA to install, however you improve driveline angles and gain oil pan clearance. I think its worth it. I did the JKS 1.25" BL and M.O.R.E. motor mounts. No complaints with either.
sean

[XfaCtoR]

i know someone is going to have something to say about my not running a fan shroud. but its temporary and i have an eletric going in its place. and i just adjusted the 4wheel drive linkage and it works mint. i didnt have to touch the console but did notices a lil resistance from the shifter boot. no biggy, it still gets in all the gears.

[97Sahara]

I bought a JKS budget mml which is just a pair of spacers so you keep the stock motor mounts. Some motor mount lifts made of stiffer polyurethane actually intoduce motor vibes, so thats why i got the budget mml. i think its only about 50 bucks. I havnt installed it yet but because i heard its a pain, but i really need to soon.

[J.T.Woody]

Installing the motor mount lift is not THAT hard.

After you remove the bolts holding the mounts to the frame and the block, loosen the bolts holding the transmission in place. This will allow the motor to move around as much as needed.
A floorjack and a piece of wood placed properly under the oil pan will assist you in raising the motor up to its proper height.

A couple crowbars and a hammer won't hurt either .


Dan, I like my DayStar kit, but it was around $120 when I got it last winter. I've heard good things about the JKS lift, too. May as well get that extra 1/4", right? ;D

[rockdaleTJ]

Derek...how bad was the tranfer case linkage on your install?? Any shift binding/not engaging gear in 2nd/4th??

I think im going to go with the JKS, and a MML. Need to start shopping around!!

[97Sahara]

Adjusting the transfer case linkage is really easy imo, but maybe its because ive been tooling around it soo much. Its maybe a 20 minute job. After the body lift and tcase drop i couldnt shift out of 2wd. It was a quick fix tho, i just needed to adjust the shift lever underneath, its more easier done than said. Also, my tranny would pop out of 2nd all the time, but to fix that, all i did was remove the shift boot and pull off the foam isolator thats around the stick, which isnt needed anyways. Im not so good at explaining it, oh well.

[97Sahara]

Also in most cases the tcase linkage drop bracket that comes with the BL needs to have a little notch grounded out, if you dont do it youll hear and feel a knocking coming from underneath the floorboards. I actually didnt need the bracket until i dropped the tcase.
www.4x4xplor.com/bl.html

[chrometj]

my jeep also didn't like the lift kit, the shifter will pop out of 2nd sometimes, or be a bezzatch to put in, but with a few simple mods like Derek listed, (shifter boot modifications) and Matt (moving the console back) it should be fine, some guys even upgrade to the b&m or hurst shifter...

Mike

[jps4jeep]

Shifting problems are common with tj's and with body lifts. when I had the Tcase drop on my YJ, it would pop out of 2nd and 4th. problem was simply solved by taking a hammer to the floor boards directly behind the shifter, couple swift swings and shifted perfect... then I put the SYE in a month later and took the Tcase drop off and rendered my modified floor boards useless

[rockdaleTJ]

sooo...If i do this would you guys be interested in giving a hand? As always...beer supplied.
Im not too worried about the shifter, modifying the console to acommodate that is really the least of my worries. The stuff like T-Case linkage and MML is what freaks me out, because of my lack of experience with it.

Or...do i just say screw it would it be better worth time/effort/$$$ and get the RE 3.5 Standard Kit and get rid of my spacer/rubi spring/BL ideas?? ;D