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Post by jeepguy on Nov 14, 2005 19:32:15 GMT -3
I have a 97 XJ, and I can see that the brake lines are pretty darn rotted. Whats the deal with replacing them? Is it pretty straight forward? Any thoughts?
Thanks all!
D.
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Post by bluerocket on Nov 14, 2005 19:37:05 GMT -3
Once all the lines are replaced blead the system well and check for leaks and you should be all set.
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Post by jeepguy on Nov 15, 2005 8:44:32 GMT -3
Is bleeding the brakes a big deal? If I get a Chiltons manual, will that spell it out pretty clearly? Obviously I am a newbie......is this something a newbie can do?
Thanks Bluerocket,
D.
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Post by axle on Nov 15, 2005 9:48:33 GMT -3
where do you live? I'm sure someone can help you. It can be a two person job, and if your lines are rusty it could be a beotch. You don't want to end up with broken bleeders, or fittings.A chiltons is a big help if need to start a fire.  Bob |
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Post by bluerocket on Nov 15, 2005 10:01:16 GMT -3
When i was younger i did a lot of work on my car out of a chiltons headgasket etc it certainly was better than the hayes manual. Now I jus ttake things appart on the jeep its so strait forward.
Break lines are a PITA usually Just keep that in mind.
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Post by axle on Nov 15, 2005 10:28:49 GMT -3
That was sort of a joke, i have chiltons and haynes but neither ever really help much. They are good for torqe specs.
Bob
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Post by jps4jeep on Nov 15, 2005 15:22:59 GMT -3
I had to replace every last line in my YJ last spring, My advise it to buy the tube in varrying lengths and use couplers to connect, make it 100X easuer to get the lines in the small spots and also in the futur should a line break, you will only have to replace that section and not the whole thing.
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Post by mmagnumpi9 on Nov 15, 2005 20:13:10 GMT -3
getting the old ones off can be a b**** though.
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Post by jps4jeep on Nov 16, 2005 11:37:05 GMT -3
getting the old ones off can be a b**** though. the easiest way to do it is to use a pair of side cutters and cut the hard line right up against the fitting and use a regular socket and wrench to take it off. like in this pic  then to make sure that the fittings would thread together real easy and also not slide down the tbe and get stuck somewhere after I bend the tube I used electrical tape at the ends  |
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Post by chrometj on Nov 16, 2005 12:06:26 GMT -3
good tip john!
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Post by JoGumby on Nov 17, 2005 19:09:11 GMT -3
The hardest part will be removing the old lines & opening bleeders. Start spraying with liquid wrench a few days or more before you start the job. It'll help losen up the fittings & bleeders & help out. A piece of string can be traced along your lines & then used with a tape measure for an accurate measurement. Installation will be alot easier if u buy a cheap $5 tube bender. It'll prevent kinks and allow you to route new lines into place alot easier. Keep in mind if you wheel your ride that a little longer line may be more strategically placed so as not to snag on objects such as small trees & brush. If you cannot loosen a bleeder you can bleed brakes at wheel fitting & should be fine. Always have someone pump brakes 4-5 times & then keep pressure on brake while you open fitting & allow air to escape. Tighten fitting repeat process until solid stream of fluid comes out with no air...then maybe once more to be sure |
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Post by Jay on Nov 18, 2005 12:09:30 GMT -3
brakes shouldnt be too bad. i did all new drums in the front when i got my xj in april. i did wheel cylinders, shoes, adjuster cable, etc and its not too bad for someone new (was my first time too) then i did front and it aint too bad. i forget where the bleeder is for the rear but on the calipers on the front its pretty easy. if u want some help just pm me and see if u can get some time. i really dont think the manuel is too helpful in this sort of fix imo. i just take it apart and put it back together lol
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Post by laybackman on Nov 18, 2005 23:42:31 GMT -3
Let's assume you got all the lines off and you have all the bleeders freed up and you replaced all of the lines. Now comes the fun part...bleeding the system. Here is how you can do it all by your self and only get under the car 4 times. Get your self a real cheap vacuum pump tester The are called miti-vacs, etc. You can use it with a 16' piece of aquarium airline tubing to bleed the entire system while standing by your master cylinder. Go to the right rear bleeder open it up attached one end of the airline tubing to it the other end to the vac pump. Make sure your MC stays full of fluid. Now use the pump to suck the BF through the system until you can see solid fluid at the hose. Close bleeder then do left rear, right front, left front. DONE
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