04 Rubicon Tru-Lock System

[Tooch]

Ok, so I hate the fact that I can't lock my axels in 4-hi so I've been doing some research. While looking through some older JP magazines, I read a small blurb that said if you ground a certain wire (can't remember off the top of my head which one) then you can use your lockers in 4-hi.

Now my questions are, does this really work? And secondly, will I be able to lock in 2WD? If I can lock in 2WD does anyone know how to avoid this??

[chrometj]

rockcrawler.com has a writeup?

[Tooch]

That is slowly becoming one of my favorite sites......thanks chrome.

[Tooch]

As with most electrical installations, the first thing you'll need to do is disconnect your battery. Then disassemble part of your dash. Begin by prying up the defroster vent panel by the windshield. You can use a flathead screwdrive or, like Bill, you can pick up a real trim tool from your Jeep dealer for about $3. Pry the trim in several places along until it pops out.



Once the vent is out of the way, you will see two Phillips head screws. Remove these, and this will allow the center dash bezel to be carefully pulled off by pulling straight out and upward.



The HVAC controls and the switch panel will be exposed. There are four screws that hold the switch panel in place,. Remove them and pull the panel out of the dash. In the photos here, you'll see the toggle switch for the lockers already installed. Bill chose to use an aircraft-style switch with a safety cover to activate the locker bypass. The switch used in this install is an inexpensive $10 switch. If you go topless and/or doorless often, we'd recommend using a military-spec switch. They are dust and moisture-proof and they do cost more, but they are worth it in the long run. You can get these from Kilby Enterprises.

Looking at the back of the toggle switch, there is a red wire with a white stripe. If this wire is connected to the vehicle ground, it tells the computer that the transfer case is in low range. The computer will then allow the lockers to engage, as long as the vehicle is going less than 10 mph. The object of the modification is to trick the computer into thinking the transfer case is in low range, in order to allow the lockers to be turned on.

Take a piece of wire and tap into the red/white striped wire, and run this to your switch. Then tap into the black wire and run that to other pole on the switch. When the switch is turned ON you will be able to use the lockers in any transfer case range. With the switch in the OFF position, the lockers operate in low range only.

The safety toggle switch was used in order to prevent accidental use of the modification. Although any switch will work, or no switch at all, we do recommend this type of switch for the safest installation. See the chart above for other wiring options. The photos below should help you with the wiring. Click each one for a larger view.

[makizoo]

Why? I've looked at this mod since I got my Rubi, and after a year of wheelin' I can't come up with a single instance where being locked in 4high would have helped. Actually can't come up with a how it would be good for anything other than snapping the front stock axle.

[Tooch]

I don't understand how it would snap your front axle? It would be just like having a detroit locker instead of a tru-lock system.

Also, i've been in a situation where lockers would have been ideal because i was stuck in some mud. The 4L was geared too low to get much traction with the lockers and then when I switched to 4H, I had to disengage hte lockers and I was just slipping everywhere.

It's one of those things, that I'll most likely only use once or twice, but I'd rather have it and never use it (if it only costs $10), then need it at some point and not have it.

[bluerocket]

I cant agree more, get thoes tires spinning and when one snags it isnt happy. I only wheel in Lowrange, i've never seen a trail I needed hi for.

[XfaCtoR]

we did this to my budds run misus the safty switch. its a big help in snow/mud/sand when you need the wheel speed

[makizoo]

Wheel speed + sudden traction = broken u joint! Plus in snow etc. if you're all locked up on any kind of side slope plan on crab walking sideways right off the trail (ask me how I know) ;D I've been able to get all the wheel speed I need in 4 L in 3rd or 4th vs 4 H in first.
Trick is to get the wheel speed going before you get stuck not after.

[dsgray16]

hey if you want to do it go it, its an easy mod


Maki, this wouldnt really increase his chances of breakage per say. This is assuming he just wants it so that he can engage th elockers while stopped but still use 4hi, i deff would not engage the lockers while you are spinning tires but thats common sense

I, like everybody else , feel there really isnt a point. You will never want to engage the lockers in 4hi on the street, no matter what the weather is like, open diffs are always better

[SPYDER]

wheel speed and front lockers aren't a great idea, but some times its just a necessity. there is no way in chance you can make it up the ice luge in 4low without wheelspeed, its simple impossible. did anybody break on it so far...not that i am aware of.

[jeepininmaine]

there is no way your gonna have enuf wheel speed to keep the tires cleaned out in low range around here.if you wheel any type of serious mud and have respectable gearing your gonna need high range.and as far as broken axle joints .....i can see it if you have tremendous wheel speed and suddenly grab traction....but as long as you stay on the throttle that wheels gonna keep spinning not stop dead.low range multiples your torque..therefore putting wayyy more stress on an axle joint than high range.i see a lot more busted joints in low range on rocks than i do in the mud.i think everyone has a valid opinion on this as non of us wheel the same.some guys(me) like gettin in the mud and lettin er have it others like to climb everything in site.......and i can not think of to many off road situations where given the choice i would choose open over locked front and rear.just my .02 ..

[Tooch]

Well the main reason I'm contemplating this is because there is a fail save in teh tru-lock system. If you go over 10MPH then they automatically disengage.

Now I know not to just have fun and turn my lockers on while driving 60 down the highway, but that's also why there is a second switch.

Basically, I've been stuck in deep mud where I was in 4th geer in 4L and I barely had enough wheel speed to get out. In my Rubi that gave good wheel speed and I needed a little more than that. I did eventually get out, but if I had a first or second gear in 4H then it would have been much easier.

I don't plan on using this very often, if at all, but you do sometimes need speed and the fact it that I don't have or plan on using detroits anytime soon. So, here is a simple solution with a 10MPH fail safe. And if I can't get out of where I'm stuck going 10MPH then there is something wrong with the driver.

Dsgray16 put it best. It's a simple mod and I agree when he said it's going to be a rare chance for me to increase breakage. Plus if I do break something, then I'll go to a Dana 60 or a Ford 88. Breakage = bigger and better.

[dsgray16]

just lift it and get 35x15.5 Boggers...then you wont need wheel spin

[Tooch]

dsgray16 said:

just lift it and get 35x15.5 Boggers...then you wont need wheel spin

Great idea, why didn't I think of that!!!

Oh yea, it's still my DD so I can't really do that just yet.