Opinions on lifts

[makizoo]

Like @$$holes, everyone has one. Been researching since I got my jeep last Jan and still can't decide

RE SF- Most popular by far, but rumored that bushings don't last with mud and salt. Anyone been running an RE kit for more than a year and care to comment?

RK- Looks real interesting. Problems in the past with heims seem to be resolved. Not too sure about the solid stock thing seems to me they would be strong but heavy and real hard to get a good weld. Any fabricators want to chime in.

FT- Entry level kits not that impressive and higher end requires exhaust mod and over all pain to install. Plus a bit out of my price range.

Any body want to confuse me more. Oh ya due to garage height and being a daily driver I want to stick to 4" and 33's. Current plan is the RK Severe Duty 4" SA kit or RE SF 4.5 kit, but sub in JKS control arms and 3.5 springs.

[1BadTJ]

I think you answered all your own concerns. I have been very impressed with the RE SF arms. lots of flex. i dont have them but i have seen them on other Jeeps.

[jps4jeep]

To enhance the off-roadability, as well as maintain you drivability, There are going to be a number of options that would all have pros and cons.

Consindering that you already have a body lift to clear the flat skid&mml, you will already be slightly higher than most stock jeeps in the quest to fit 33's. TJ's can safely flex out with 33's and zero rub(depending on back spacing of wheel) with a minimal 3" lift. so since you already have the BL, I would go the route of a 3" lift, you will clear 33's easily, then I would save some $$ by selling off the rubi 16's and 31's and throw some black 15" wheels and 33's on there.

[97Sahara]

i agree with John here too. I have the 3.5" Re super flex with a 1" BL and its a tad too tall for my taste (if thats possible) and with this setup i could definetly fit 35s, the 33s i have now look miniature.

[jeepgod]

RE springs will settle, typically about 1 " after a couple of m0onths.
i agree with johnny, he is correct how much more lift you need to run 33"

[97Sahara]

o and the RE SF bushings are rebuildable.

[XfaCtoR]

im running 33s on clasic IIs with only a 2" bl..and vary minimal rub on the rear flare under full flex....

[jeepnut]

Sean,

I have RE SF arms and I like them a lot. If you install them,
there are some thing you should know. When you install them,
be sure to use lots of anti-seize on the bolts that go through
the SF side of the arms. They are known to seize up to the
point that you have to cut them out to remove. Not a good
thing.

My biggest issue with them is I can't get grease into them. I could
at first but it just gets worse each time I try. I am using an air
gun to do it and am currently looking for a better nozzle. Seems
no one sells the pneumatic kind around here.

You can rebuild them but if they seize, forget it. So use lots of anti-seize.

I have air-springs so I can't speak from experience but I have
heard they run on the high side. So, say you get a 3&1/2",
they will net you 4 or 4&1/2.

As for the wheels, I have to disagree with John. The Moab
wheels are great and very tuff. I'm not real fond of the looks
but I always choose function over bling. They hold a bead better
than most and the 16"s will leave less sidewall to damage on
the trail. They are also a lot easer to balance than steel. One
thing I might do is paint them black.

Tires; Well here I stayed with the Goodyear MTRs just a bigger
size. One of the down-sides of staying with the Moab wheels is
the back spacing. I wanted 12.50s so I chose to go with spacers.
Spidertrax has a good rep and have been around a while. If
you don't do this they 'will' rub. The other option would be to
add shims to the steering stops but I like the radius I get now
and the gained stability of a wider foot print. There was a debate
here a while back on using lock-tight but I didn't chime in
because it got a bit heated. I will now because not to would be
to cheat you out of the truth. Yes, you do use red lock-tight on
the nuts they send you that hold on the spacers. In fact, they
include it in there kit! I check these on a regular basis and have
never found them lose. I also know at least 5 other people who
use they and not one complaint. Please do not argue this point
as it is my opinion and the opinion of the engineers at spidertrax.
I trust them.

Well that’s about all I can think of so ask if you have any other
questions about the RE SF lift.

Good luck and have some fun with it.

Roger.

[JeepTJ00]

After I saw what happened to Brian Rubi's wheel in Paragon I am not a beliver of those moab wheels.



Bob

I will be getting the 5.5" RK LA in a couple of months so I will tell you how it is if you hadent gotten a lift yet.

[jps4jeep]

jeepnut said:

Sean,


As for the wheels, I have to disagree with John. The Moab wheels are great and very tuff.

I didn't say they weren't tough, I was try to illistrate that 33" tires to fit 15" rims are cheaper, plus, on ebay people are paying almost $900 for moab wheels with tires in OK shape! so if he sells his factroy rims and tires, and gets some 33's on 15" wheels, probably would make money in the deal.

[makizoo]

I'm planning on holding onto the Moabs for winters and inspections and buying some 15's, probably cragars for wheels. If the RK or RE kit look to tall for 33's with the 1" bl, Well there's Swampahs or TRXus in a 34" ;D

[SPYDER]

the RE kits sit about an 1" taller than advertised and the springs are a little stiff but still flex really well. i love my set up and it would work just as well with the 3.5" springs. if you want to to go with jks arms, i would just buy the basic 3.5" lift and then get the arms seperate, it will probably end up being cheaper. and i would also suggest getting the RK weld in rear tri-link, i love mine and will never put a rear track bar on my jeep again. its stable and can flex like crazy.

[jeepgod]

getting the RK weld in rear tri-link, i love mine and will never put a rear track bar on my jeep again. its stable and can flex like crazy.

did u get the weld in? i thought u got the bolt on type?

[makizoo]

In discussion on anothr board the KR design is thought to be flawed. Reason being that the diffence in length between the uppers and lowers forces a change in pinion angle through out the duration of the rear axle articulation. 2k2blktj, any concern that this may have played a part in the demise of your rear end?

[SPYDER]

thats only if you are running their long arms. im still running the RE short arms so it works perfectly. and no...too much skinny pedal over the course of its life was what blew it up.

todd....i do have the bolt in but i strongly suggest getting the weld in for everybody else so you won't have to deal with the issues i have. once i get some money and my jeep back in working order, you will be hearing from me to help me weld in the new truss.